07 Feb
On the second day of KKW, Yara and I decided to join a group of climbers to the sea traverse. Upon arrival, we started questioning whether we wanted to spend such a long time traverse climbing with widely spaced bolts. We were more in the mood for some chill single pitching. After waving the traverse group goodbye as they abseiled down, we headed towards Dancing Dalle, a picturesque single pitching area rising from the sea.
We scanned the names of the routes and compared them with the routes in the topo. Apart from one route, there was no resemblance in route names. While we translated Italian names to English in an attempt to find a solution to the topo puzzle, a guy packed with gear entered the scene. We asked whether he understood what the topo was trying to tell us. Thank god, he did! Apparently the bolts were so old, he had asked the main bolters in Finale Ligure to rebolt it. He had made new routes and replaced all the bolts. Today was the last day he would rebolt on this area, to replace the final anchors on the famous and first 7a in Finale Ligure, Dancing Dalle.
We were in luck, because apart from rebolting the area, he handed us the new topo, shared his Italian snacks, helped with some rope techniques on the specific anchors and talked us through the routes. When talking with him, it was easy to notice that he built his life around climbing. He quit his job to start a freelance business, so that he could visit climbing areas whenever he wanted. He also found a climbing gym in Milan to socialize with climbers and train for the outdoors himself.
We decided to attempt the historical 7a, Dancing Dalle, which was filled with athletic moves and crimps. Many moves were asking a lot from your fingers and body, but luckily Jian was cheering us on from the top. To capture ours send(attempt)s, he became our personal photographer. He threw himself over the rock, abseiled down to the perfect spot and took pictures that he would later share with us. Can’t all climbing areas have their own Jian?
When another group of ESAC’ers joined later that day, he was delighted to see so many people climbing his newly rebolted routes and took many pictures of the brewing climbing area. He was quick to make friends with all of us and decided to join us for a swim in the cool bay below.
When climbing outside, there are often moments where you realize: wow I really chose the best community to hang out with. This was certainly one of those! If you want to meet Jian yourself, spend your winters in Finale (without a doubt, you walk into him) or visit his bouldering gym La Parete Rossa in Milan.